Gardens of sheer delight

Buri Ram province ups its attractions with a beautiful botanical garden and luxury resort

THAILAND MIGHT still be in the grips of the monsoon but the cool season has already arrived at Play La Ploen Floral Park in Buri Ram where colourful winter blossoms are in full bloom.  Located in Khu Muang district, Play La Ploen is the first flower park in the country’s northeast region and brings together an extraordinary mix of Thai culture and exotic European designs under one roof. Spread over 400-rai, this botanical garden is home to six temperature-controlled greenhouses populated by plants from around the world.

The Seasonal Plant greenhouse shines the light on romance with Dutch hydrangea varieties, amaryllises and Siam tulips.The “Love and Loyalty” building hosts the “Under His Graciousness” exhibition that pays tribute to His Majesty the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej. Alongside, the Tha Sawang village showcases local wisdom through a collection of traditional silks and ancient gold set off against a couple of white elephants fashioned from flowers.  Inspired by landscaped gardens of which Europe is so proud, the Seasonal Plants greenhouse alternates its displays every three months. Until November, it’s adorned with a pastel carpet of Holland hydrangea varieties, amaryllises and Siam tulips on a Romantic Flowers theme. In December, it will be home to yellow tulips, lilies and other winter plants as the nation celebrates the late King’s birthday.

Dinosaurs peek out from the ferns and petrified wood in the Prehistoric. The Prehistoric zone looks as though it was designed by Hollywood director Steven Spielberg with its Jurassic Park theme. Here dinosaurs are busy hunting for food and more than 60 species of ferns are wrapped around petrified wood. Several varieties of these non-flowering plants are on display here, namely the rabbit foot fern, ladder fern, Brazilian tree fern and bear paw, Pteridium and Blechuum orientale, all of which have adjusted to the tropical climate and grow well in hot and humid surrounds. 

Over in the Colour of Nature exhibition, a giant butterfly has been fashioned from orchids, chrysanthemums and carnations. The show itself is divided into two themes – mainland and ocean - boasting bromeliads and coloured carnivorous plants with other shrubs fashioned as peacocks, parrots, lady bugs and mermaids. Mostly found in Mexico, Brazil, Chile, Peru, Columbia and Costa Rica, bromeliads have some 25,000 species and in Thailand are categorised into two groups – edible (pineapple) and ornamental.

On view here are the neoregelia, aechmean, guzmania, vriesea and tillansia varieties. They share space with a range of carnivorous plants from Asia, the Americas and Australia, among them nepenthes, sarracenia, drosera, Venus fly trap and pinguicula. The Kinnaree garden boasts several kinds of orchids. Next door is the mythical Kinnaree garden influenced by the Thai literary work “Phra Suthon and Nang Manohra”. It’s home to rare orchid species including the ground orchid, red orange star, vanilla sweet, rhynchostylis retusa, cattleya, vanda and mokkara plus even rarer strains such as aristolochia ringens vahl and aristolochia Indica L.The Great Pyramids hall is home to replicas of pharaoh Tutankhamen and Cleopatra’s tombs and a wide variety of rare cacti.The Great Pyramids hall has, as the name suggests, an Egyptian theme with replicas of the tombs of Pharaoh Tutankhamen and Cleopatra surrounded by a sea of cacti in full bloom. Species include agaves, candelabra plant, silver torch and crested euphorbia.

The Art of SEA pavilion mimics an Isaan village with a spread of anthurium from the Netherlands. The Art of SEA zone is designed to resemble an Isaan farming village and furnished with a collection of wooden agricultural tools and traditional costumes. They are surrounded by anthurium or dok na wua in Thai, a monocotyledon plant and native to the tropics that boasts heart-shaped leaves and petals that turn from yellow to white when it blooms. The exhibition focuses on seven species imported from the Netherlands including otasu, Dakota, sense, fiorino, jori, okapi and sempre.

Ruen Tam Rab Sam Rab Thai takes inspiration from a Thai-style wooden house. A short walk from the greenhouse zone, Ruen Tam Rab Sam Rab Thai is a beautiful Thai-style wooden house furnished with rare antique ceramics, porcelains and wooden tables from the reign of King Rama V.Visitors can sign up for workshops on Thai desserts, natural fabric dyes and handicrafts.   Visitors to the gardens are invited to join workshops on naturally dyed fabric, Thai desserts and handicrafts and can make a holiday of it by staying overnight at the Play La Ploen Boutique Resort.  Right now Play La Ploen is gearing up for winter by preparing a cosmos field, strawberry plantations and a vineyard. IF YOU GO Play La Ploen Floral Park is located at 252, Khu Muang district, Buri Ram province. It’s open daily from 9am to 6pm. Tickets are Bt80 for children and Bt150 for adults.  Find out more at (087) 797 6425, (044) 634 736-8 or visit www.PlayLaPloen.com.

Trees sigh, temple bells ring and neon lights dazzle in Kansai

At Mikimoto Pearl Island, you can see the well-known Ama divers in action. 

The Land of the Rising Sun is famous for its sprawling metropolises, mind-boggling technological advances, congested streets and people always on the move, focused solely on their duties.But there is another Japan, a place where the buildings are dainty, traditional, mostly wooden and surrounded by natural splendour. A place where people walk at a leisurely pace and actually take time out to smell the flowers.Welcome to Kansai, the south-central region of Honshu island, often referred to as the cradle of Japanese culture.Here, one will be awestruck by the gentleness and politeness of the people when they interact with one another. This, perhaps, has something to do with the pride they have in their cultural heritage. And it is best observed during visits to the numerous cultural sites teeming with mostly Japanese visitors as well as the odd number of foreign tourists.

The Todaji Temple in Nara is one of Japan’s most famous and historically significant temples. 

SERENITY RULESOne good example is the Todaiji Temple in Nara prefecture. When this writer was there, this famous place of worship was filled with crowds lining up to climb the numerous steps to get inside.The building is majestic. After all, it is the world's largest wooden structure. Inside is one of Japan's largest bronze sitting Buddha statues (15m tall), flanked by two Bodhisattvas.What struck me was that most of the visitors were schoolchildren on excursions. They reverently toured the massive main hall, eager to learn about its history. It appeared to me that, from young, the Japanese are taught to honour and respect their heritage.During the long walk from the entrance through the Nandaimon Gate - a large wooden gate watched over by two fierce-looking statues - one encounters numerous Sika deer nudging up to visitors, seeking snacks. And fed they are, as visitors take the opportunity to snap pictures of themselves petting these gentle creatures that live in the park.Another famous landmark is the Tenryu-ji Temple in Kyoto. This wooden structure is surrounded by luscious greenery, flowers and a large pond filled with carp - all of which contribute to an atmosphere of serenity. And yes, people actually take leisurely strolls and stop to smell the flowers! The area is sited within a bamboo forest which visitors can hike through.

The Sika deer in Nara Park are unafraid of visitors and wait to be fed. 

Did I mention serene?The Isse jingu or Ise Grand Shrine, situated in Mie Prefecture, which we visited on the fifth day of our media trip, is the one place where I most felt at peace and one with nature during the entire trip.This is one of the Shinto religion's most holy shrines dedicated to the sun goddess Amaterasu and said to contain Yata no Kagami, a sacred mirror which was handed down to her descendants - Japan's imperial family.We did a lot of walking during our trip. Being the oldest and asthmatic, I struggled to keep pace with the three young women in my group. So my tour guide advised me to begin my walk earlier than the others.I was spellbound by the sheer beauty of the greenery and the vast area of Japanese cedars within the complex and the surrounding forests.Visitors making their way to the main shrine at the Ise Grand Shrine complex.

The Tenryu-ji Temple complex in Kyoto

I felt strangely energised, and completed the walk around the complex without difficulty. I was already on my way out just as the tour guide and the other journalists were walking in!The Japanese believe that the trees are inhabited by kami (gods); those visiting the shrine reverently touched them.CITY SIGHTS AND NATURETo backtrack a bit… When our group arrived in Kansai airport, it was morning and we could not check into the hotel.The tour guide who was assigned to our group told us that we would start the tour immediately by visiting the Tsutenkaku Tower located in the Shinsekai district of Naniwa-ku, Osaka.From the hotel, we walked to a nearby station and boarded a commuter train to the place.At the tower, we made our way to the fifth floor which houses the world-famous Billiken statue (God Of Things As They Ought To Be). Billiken, it is said, was designed by an American artist who had a "divine" dream.The encased Billiken statue set against the backdrop of the Osaka skyline. 

Visitors making their way to the main shrine at the Ise Grand Shrine complex

It was first displayed at a theme park which had been located near the tower; it became popular with visitors who believed it could bestow good luck. Crowds kept streaming in, with young and old rubbing the idol's feet and making wishes.We then made our way, on foot, to traditional small shops in Shinsekai, where we had lunch.After our meal, the guide told us that we had free time and we could visit the Dotonbori shopping centre which was a 30-minute walk away.Later, we took a train to the Kita district and then walked quite a distance to the Umeda Sky Building, a spectacular high-rise building. On the 40th floor is a floating garden with a stunning 360-degree view of the city.But even more amazing was the night view from the Sky Restaurant on the 50th floor of the hotel we were staying in.When in Japan, do as the Japanese do. On Day Four of the trip, we took a two-train journey to Nara-machi, where we had the opportunity to try on and walk about in kimonos.Putting one on can be quite time-consuming. First, you have to wear a sort of undergarment, something akin to a mini Long John but made of cotton.Then a light inner kimono is worn, sash and all. After that, the actual kimono goes on.It was not difficult to walk around in it, but the real challenge was when I had to go to the toilet. I gave up and went back to the shop we had hired the garment from and changed back into my clothes.

A 7km journey on the Sagano Romantic Train gives great views of the rivers and mountains on a charming train.

During the trip, we were taken to popular tourist spots. In Kyoto, we went for a ride on the antique Sagano Romantic Train.The natural scenery we passed was pleasant to the eye. Afterwards, we took the Hozugawa River Boat ride. The boatmen use long poles to move the craft forward, and away from the rocks.Another famous tourist spot is the Mikimoto Pearl Island in Ise Bay, which is off the shore of Toba, Mie prefecture.Here, one gets to see a demonstration by the famous Ama - female free-divers who collect oysters containing pearls which are cultured underwater.On the island is also a museum where one can learn the history and see samples of cultured pearls.A visit to Kansai is an eye-opener and one that should not be missed by those who are into nature or wish to learn about other cultures.[Sources : The Jakarta Post,Saturday, September 30, 2017 ] 

EASTERN & ORIENTAL EXPRESS: on the gourmet train

By Stanley Sobari|  From JAKARTA POST, SEPTEMBER 26, 2015 |THE STAR |ANN |MING TEOH

ALL ABOARD!  Imagine being transported to a different time, ti the bygone er of Agatha Christie with famous Belgian detective Hercule Poirot in Christie’s novel, “Murder on teh Orient Express”. Except this time, there isn’t any murder on the train, nor is there any famous Belgian detective.Teh plot has changed: on board is a celebrity chef and a bunch of journalists fro mfour countries – Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and the Philippines – the public relatins team of Asian Food Channel, lucky winners of the “Jonathan Phang’s Courmet Getaway” contest, as well as other international travellers.

And this orient express isn’t the one that runs throughout the European countryside, but the Eastern & Oriental Express which travels through the exotic tropical rainforest , paddy fields, villages,  towns and cities of Malaysia and Thailand, journeying from Singapore to Bangkok.

Both trains are owned and operated by Belmond, a premium travel curator and connoisseur taht owns a collection of 46 iconic hotels, trains and river cruises worldwide.

Our journey starts from teh Raffles Hotel in Singapore wehre we checked in to the E&O Express.

While waiting, we are served teh renowned Singapore sling cocktail, born rihgt in this very hotel in 1915.

It was created by a Hainanese bartender working at the Long Bar at the hotel. We then proceed to the Woodlands Train Checkpoint to board the train.

Just like its original namesake, teh E&O Express exudes old world glamour. From the moment you step on board, it is like stepping into a different time and place wehre life slows down...and wehre there is no television, gym, Internet or Wi-Fi (gaps!). doormen in smart uniforms wait at the carriages to assisst passengers to their cabins.

Even in the limited space that one would expect on a train, it exudes elegance, and is very comfortable and extremly cozy.

Wood-panelled walls and warm lighting add tothe cahrming ambience as tropical rainforests, rivers and villages whizz by outside the large window.

The scent of fresh jasmine pot-pourti waft through when I open the bathroom door to a hot and cold shower compartment, sink, cabineet and seat toilet.

Each carriage is assigned a pesonal steward who sees to the comfort of the guests, reminiscent of a personal butler in days gone by.

My steward is Eakachai, or jsut “Ea”. He makes sure that i have breakfast in bed (literally, because the sofa is turned down into a comfortable bed before sundown and only reconverted into a sofa afte breakfast!) at time taht I specify, and afternoon tea each day with real china on a silver tray with real silverware cutlery.

Lunches adn dinners are held at one of the dining cars, quaintly named Malaya adn Rosaline.

Elaborate table lamps, polished silverware, crystal glasses, starched white tablecloths adn personalized menus – so characteristic of the charm of the 1930s – add to the opulent of a bygone era.

Lunch is a semi-formal affair, and dinner is formal, something that i have to get used to, as I’m a regular jeans-and-no-make-up kind of person, but dressing up forthe occasion adds to the whole romantic feel of being on board teh elegant express.

I am amazed at how such delicious meals of good portion could be prepared in such compct kitchens, and also the versatiltiy of the dishes, which combine both flavors of the East and the West.

the meals prepared by executive chef Yannis Martineau from France are the epitome of fine dining.

There are exquisite appetizers like cauliflower bavois and vegetable medley with smoked duck breast, mouthwatering mains like medallion of beef with foie gras croqueette and Asian vegetables, vindaloo sauce adn mustard foam, and delectable desserts like chocolae and pandan mousse on crispy hazelnut praline with coconut coulis.

For the participants of this trip, the icing on the cake is, of course, meeting UK-based celebrity chef and host Jonathan Phang, and enjoying a five-course Caribean-style dinner specially prepared by him on board the train.

What is special about Phang’s style of cooking is that, because of his unique Carribean background (his father is Chinese adn his mother is Creole), it is a potpourri of tastes.

It is enchanting to savor the diverse flavors in teh dishes that the celebrity chef serves up that night, which are also featured in his cook book, The Peerpot Club: A Celebration of Caribbean Cuisine.

Nuances of Western herbs and West Indian spices in the pumpkin soup, touches of West Indian spices in teh cod fish cakes with red mayonnaise, and traces of traditional chinese sesonings in the beef peppoepot and jerk chicken, as well as hints of East Indian spices in teh chickpea and vegetable curry, he mian courses served during dinner...all adds to the uniqueness of the meal.

So..what does one do on board a luxurious tain like the Easter & Oriental Express, wehre there are no internet or Wi-Fi, television or gym? To taht, i have to stay taht it’s a really “social” environment.

Besides hanging out in our cabins, tehr is a reading room wehre one can sit and while away time amidst the pages of a novel, a boutique wehr one can buy premium souvenirs, and evenings can be spentwathin teh sunset fromteh obwervation car which is adjacent to a colonial, planter-style lounge bar at the back fo the rain wehre one can chat with other travllers, sit and sip champagne, or enjoy an espresso while wathcing the world bo by.

There’s also a piano bar where guests can gather to enjoy cocktails and after-dinner drinks while listening to vveteran pianist, Singapore Pete.

Humour is a huge part of Phang’s adventures and the down-to-earth celebrity host and food adventurer really throws himself into each experience.

From telling us amusing anecdotes of his travels to joining in the sing-a-along at the piano bar after dinner, Phang is an excellent host and makes everyone feel at home.

Sleeping on a constantly moving train is a unique experience for me. For some, the rocking motion of the trains lulls them to slumberland easily, but for lights sleepers, wearing earplugs, or taking sleep medication may help.

I’m thankful that I have to do neither to sleep, but I wake up a few times during the night and wonder why everyting around me is moving!

Not all the time is spent on board the train. There are two exursions in the works.

The first is at the royal town of Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia, wehre we are brought on a wet market tour by Phang and Martineau to shop for ingredients for dinner.

We also visit the orayl Ubudiah Mosque, with its majestic golden dome and minarets. The second is tothe River Kwai Bridge, in Kanchanaburi, Thailand, wehre we go on a raft down the river, pass by a Vietnamese temple, and ivsit the Kanchanaburi War Cemetery adn Museum.

According to Phang, one of his most moving experiences travelling on the Eastern & Oriental Express was two years ago at this location.

When they wer visiting the River Kwai Bridge dan war cemetery, he noticed a group of older Australians who were learly war veterans on a pilgrimage.

“When you see the River Kwai Bridge, something rally hits you and you think: ‘Oh my God, how many people died here? Tens of thousands.’

“It dawns on you when you see rows of graves of young soldiers. That brought me down to earth very quickly and I did shed some tears off screen. It was a very special and emotional part of my journey. I tas teh place that moved me the most, and i will always remember it.”

Our journey rounds off at the Bangkok Railway Station where we are brought t othe Dusit Thani Hotel for the night before catching our flight back home the next day [*/traveladdress.blogspot.com]

CHICHAGO

Nightlife in Chicago 

By Stanley Sobari

# The lights of Chicago rise high above the shores of Lake Michigan

UNDAUNTED by the weather or the working week, Chicagoans turn out en message at night. Blues icons echo in clubs city wide, DJs spin eclectic sounds, and improve and comedy clubs unleash edgy, experimental performers.

Late Bar is off the beaten path on a forlorn stretch of Belmont Ave, though it’s easily reachable viathe Blue Line train. A couple of DJs opened the club in 2010, and its new-wave vibe draws fans of all stripes: mods, rockers, punks, Goths and more. Saturday’s 80s night are popular (latebarchicago.com; 3534 W Belmont Ave, Avondale; 8pm-4am Tue-Fri, until 5am Sat).

Smart Bar a couple of blocks north of Wrigley field, this downstairs adjunct to the Metro (known for loud rock) is a dance and music lover’s dream. The Djs here are often more renowned than you’d expect in such as a small, intimate venue, with a veritable who’s who of forward-looking break artists, house and trance Djs holding down the turntables (smartbarchicago.com; 3730 N Clark St, Wrigleyville; 10pm-4am Wed-Fri & Sun, until 5am Sat).

Debonair Social Club it’s mostly a younger, hipster crowd dancing their butts off at Wicker Park’s Debonair. The main action takes place on the upstairs floor, which draws big crowds for the can’t-sit-still oldies mash-ups, hard rock and new electro. The downstairs floor is less hot and packed, though still lively. Reggae and burlesque shows entertain on other nights (debonairsocialclub.com; 1575 N Milwaukee Ave; 9pm-2am Wed-Sat).

Blues this veteran blues club in Lincoln Park draws as slightly older crowd that soaks up every crackling, electrified moment. As one local musician put it: ‘The audience here comes out to understand the blues.’ Local stars like L’il Ed and the Blues Imperials grace the small stage (chicagobluesbar.com; 2519 N Halsted St; 8pm-2am, until 3am Sat).

Green Mill sit in Al Capone’s favourite spot at this authentic cocktail lounge, complete with curved leather booths and colourful tales about mobsters who owned shares in the place (a trap door behind the bar leads to tunnels where they hid their bootlegged booze). It’s also a great venue for jazz acts (greenmilljazz.com; 4802 N Broadway; 12pm-4am Mon-Fri, until 5am Sat, 11am-4am Sun).

Hungry Brain the Sunday Transmission jazz series is the best time to get a feel for this unassuming, comfortable Roscoe Village dive that’s full of well-worn, thrift-store charm. On that and other nights, some of the city’s best young jazzers drink cheap and let loose, often resulting in inspired sessions (umbrellamusic.org; 2319 W Belmont Ave, Lake View; from 8pm, closed Mon).

Comedysportz the gimmick? Two improve teams compete with deadly seriousness to make you laugh hysterically, in a Whose Line is it Anyway? Style showcase of comic invention. The bawdier late show excepted, it’s all family friendly-but no less entertaining for that (comedysportzchicago.com; 929 W Belmont Ave, Lake View; Thu-Sat).

IO Improvolympic founded in the 1980s, this theatre teaches and hosts performances of improvisational comedy. Notable alumni include Tina Fey, Mike Myers, Vince Vaughn and many others. With performances on two floors, shows hinge entirely on audience suggestions, and each turn can run 40 minutes or longer (ioimprov.com/Chicago; 3541 N Clark St, Wrigleyville; open daily).

Second City this club is best symbolized by John Belushi, who earned a place in the Second city improve troupe before moving on to fame and fortune. Second city’s shows are sharp and biting commerntaries on life, politics, love and anything else that falls in the crosshairs off the comedians’ rapid-fire, hard –hitting wit. An offshoot, Second city Etc, has riskier and lower-cost acts (secondcity.com; 1616 N Welss St, Old Town; open daily).

The Days Inn has perks such as free Wi-Fi, health club access and hot waffle breakfasts. Avoid the standard doubles if you’re claustrophobic – kings are significantly roomier (daysinn.co.uk; 644 West Diversey Parkway, Lincoln Park).

# The Burnham is situated right in the heart of the Loop

Housed in the landmark 1890s Reliance Building, rooms at the superslick Burnham have gold and blue striped silk draperies, mahogany desks and chaise lounges (burnhamhotel.com; 1 W Washington St).

One of Chicago’s newest luxury hotels, the Waldorf Astoria Chicago models itself on the style of ‘20s Parisian glamour. The handsome rooms are large and very well appointed (waldorfastoria3.hilton.com; 11 E Walton Street).

Chicago’s Top Record Labels Chess Record The original home of the blues in Chicago, Chess Records helped launch the careers of Muddy Waters and Howlin’ Wolf, and served as a catalyst for early sessions by Chuck Berry. Bloodshot Records at the heart of the left-of-centre American roots genre that fuses punk with old-school country music (bloodshotrecords.com). Delmark Records America’s oldest independent jazz and blues label, Delmark has produced artists such as junior Wells and Otis Rush, Sun Ra and Dina Washington (delmark.com). Thrill Jockey made famous by ‘postrock’ bands of the ‘90s, Thrill jockey has consistently introduces new genres and styles (thrilljockey.com).

From Bill Murray to Steve Carell, many of America’s finest comedians launched their careers at Second City, Chicago’s world famous comedy club. Discover more travel tips on the hoteltravel.com

American Airlines, BA and United fly direct from London Heathrow to Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport (ba.com). The airports is 17 miles northwest of the city. There’s a 24-hour train service on the Blue Line to and from the Loop, but you’re better off using a shared shuttle van service such as Airport Express (to Loop hotels; airportexpress.com). Taxis cost around £25. The ‘L’ train system, together with the bus network, is an efficient way to get around. Ventra tickets are ideal for visitors – a single, which includes two transfers, while a day pass (transitchicago.com).

Eating and Drinking in Athens

By Stanley Sobari

#Monastiraki Square, with the Acropolis rising in the background

Ancient monuments may draw the crowds but night out in lively tavernas and bars, sipping ouzo with meze, make for a memorable trip.

#Brettos began distilling tis own ouzo, brandy and liquors in 1909

Brettos A Plaka distric landmark, this delightful bar and distillery (the oldest in Athens) has a stunning backlit wall of colourful bottles and old wine barrels, and an old-fashioned character. It’s a quiet spot for a nightcap with a tempting range of homemade wine, ouzo, brandy, and other spirits (brettosplaka.com; Kydatheineon 41; 10am-3am daily).

Barley Cargo This fantastic bar offers more than 150 different beers, many of them from Greek microbreweries, others from around the world, including Belgium, Germany, the UK and US. Sip a Trappist ale at one of the wooden-barrel tables or as part of the crowd spilling out on to the street – it’s conveniently located in the heart of Syntagma’s bar-heavy area (facebook.com/BarleyCargo; Kolokotroni 6; 11am-3am Mon-Sat, 7pm-3am Sun).

Nixon Bar More suave than most local establishments in the district of Keramikos, Nixon Bar plays host to film showings and premieres in its 60-seater cinema, plus live music and evening shows. A young ,culture-hungry crowd lounges in the dimly lit bar, complete with marble floor and impressive chandelier, and make the most of the decent burgers and mean martinis on offer (Nixon.gr; Agisilaou 61b; 8pm-3am Mon-Sat, 1pm-3am Sun).

Café Avissinia Hidden away on colourful Plateia Avyssinias, in the middle of the flea market in Monastiraki, this bohemian tavern specializes in regional Greek cuisine, from moussaka to warm fava, and had a great selection of spirits .tehre is often acoustic live music too. Snag fantastic Acropolis views upstairs (avissinia.gr; Kynetou 7; 11am-1am Tue-Sat, until 7pm sun).

Kanella Homemade village-style bread, mismatched retro crockery and brown-paper tablecloths set the tone for this modern tavern in the Gazi neighbourhood serving regional Greek cuisine. Friendly staf serve daily specials such as lemon and oregano lamb with potatoes, and an excellent zucchini and avocado salad (kanellagazi.gr; Leoforos Konstantinoupoleos 70; 1.30pm-late).

#Moussaka and tzatziki are among the specialities at Paradosiako

Paradosiako For great traditional dishes, you can’t beat this inconspicuous, no-frills tavern on the periphery of historic Plaka neighbourhood, with a few tables on the pavement. There’s basic menu, but it’s best to choose from the daily specials , which include fresh seafood, such as prawn saganaki. It fills up quickly wit hlocals, so arrive early to get a table (Voulis 44a; from 10am daily).

Tzitzikas and Mermigas This bright, cheery, modern mezedhopoleio (place serving meze) sits smack in the middle of central Athens. It’s particularly popular for its delicious and crative mezedhes, such as the manouri cheese wrapped in ham and drizzled with honey (Mitropoleos 12-14, syntagma; open for lunch and dinner, closed Sun).

Flistron It’s wise to book a table on the rooftop terrace of this excellent Thisio mezedhopoleio, which enjoys excellent views of the Acropolis and Lykavittos. Specializing in regional cuisine, it has a great range of mezedhestry the grilled vegetables with haloumi or the onions stuffed with rice and mince (fillistron.com; Apostolou Pavlou 23 12pm-12am weekdays, until 1am weekends).

#Pastel shades and tiled floors characterize Yiantes’ courtyard

Yiantes This modern eatery, with its plain tables and freshly cut flowers set in a lovely garden courtyard, is an up market establishment in Exarhia, near the centre of Athens, and the food is superb and made with largely organic produce. Try dishes such as courgette croquettes, baby eel with chilli oil, calamari and stuffed vine leaves (yiantes.gr; Valtetsiou 44).

Cecil Hotel is a charming old hotel in a Neoclassical building on busy Athinas, with beautiful moulded ceilings, timber floors and an original cage-style lift. The simple rooms are tastefully furnished (cecilhotel.gr; 39 Athinas Street).

With views over the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the refurbished Athens Gate Hotel is a great find. Rooms are well equipped, staff are friendly and breakfast is served on the rooftop terrace (athensgate.gr; 10 Syngrou Avenue).

Hotel Grande Bretagne ranks among the grandest hotels of the world. Though its renovation is a few years distant, it still retains and old-world grandeur. The rooftop restaurant and bar are must visits (grandebretagne.gr; Syntagma Square).

#ouzo

GREEKS eateries like to specialize-you’ll find tavernas that only do pork or dedicated pita stores or souvlaki hole in the walls. The tavern has many specialist variations: a psarotaverna specializes in fish and seafood, a psistaria or hasapotaverna in chargrilled or spit-roasted meat.

Greek like to eat late restaurants don’t fill up until after 10pml. Lunch is still the big meal of the day, and does not start until after 2pm. Greeks are generous and proud hosts. Try not to refuse a drink-it’s a gesture of hospitality.

Greece’s aniseed-flavoured liquor, ouzo, has come to embody a way of socializing, and is best enjoyed with mezedhes during and extended lunch. It’s sipped slowly to cleanse the palate between tastings.

Aegean Airlines, BA, Cyprus Airways, easyjet, JAT Airways, Pegasus Airlines, SAS and Swiss fly direct from various UK cities to Athens International Airport. Half hourly blue-line metro trains run between the city centre and airport (5.30pm-11.30pm), and the bus service X95 connects the airport to Syntagma 24 hours (every 30 mins; journey time approx 1 hr). Athens has an inexpensive integrated public transport network of buses, metro, trolleybuses and a tram (oasa.gr). Metro tickets cost £1.20 and are valid for 90 minutes on all modes of transport.

Follow in the footstep of ancient athletes and run on the track of the Panathenaic Stadium, home to athletics since the 4^th century BC. Discover more things to see and do in the city of Athens on the HotelTravel.Com.